Bias binders are a very unique attachment
for sergers. You can actually take strips of fabric and have it fold the strip for you
and you sew it on with a coverhem stitch. They come in a couple of different varieties
or types, whatever you want to use. And they come in different sizes.
I have two of them here which are really two of most common sizes that we use and it depends
on the machine and the brand of the machine as how they actually fold the fabric and how
they attach to the machine. The ones that we’re going to use, this one is called a Single
Fold Bias Binder and it puts on a piece of bias that is 28mm. This one is called a Double
Fold Bias Binder and it puts on a 36mm piece of bias. They are attached to the machine
with these two little screws. Now they look very much the same when you look at them.
How do you tell them apart? When you turn this up, you can see in the bottom of it,
it has a C on the top and it’s straight on the bottom edge. This means it only folds
the top of the bias and the bottom layer of the bias is straight. This is the one we’re
going to use in our demonstration. This one, when you look at it, you can see
that it’s different underneath. The bias part is actually a big C. See the difference? And
look at this one in comparison. So that is how you tell the difference.
Also, each one of them is marked as to the sizeof bias that it is. That’s sometimes a
little bit harder to see. Right here, this one says that it’s 28mm and
on this one, it says 36mm. Always look at the size here, don’t try to figure out what
size it is by looking at the end of the attachment itself.
We’re going to use these to put bias on the straight edge of fabric and we’re also going
to do a curve in this segment. In this part of the lesson, we’re going to
work with actually applying the bias. You’re going to do a straight edge and you’re also
going to do a curved edge. I’m going to point out a few things to watch for when you first
start. It depends on how you want your finished look.
I started this one with one needle on the bias and one needle on the fabric.
As I came down, I adjusted the binder until I ended up with both needles on the bias.
This is a totally personal preference choice right here. You can do it either way you want.
Over here on the curve, you can see that I hit the curve going all the way around on
the bias. But, what can happen whenever you’re doing the bias binder, it is a little different
technique than doing curves than it is doing straight edges right here.
Look at this one, when I started around the curve, I immediately fell off, and then I
came back on. That’s very common to have happen when you very first use these binders. But
just to show you that it can be done in a curve, I’m on the bias here all the way around
and I will show you that technique. This one was done with the Single Fold Bias
Binder so that when you’re finished, this is what your bias looks like here. You can
see that little flap of extra fabric. You then take a nice pair of sharp scissors and
you trim that excess piece of bias off. So that’s why it’s called Single Fold, it
does not tuck that bottom edge underneath. Bias does not unravel, even though it’s a
woven fabric, so this can be trimmed nice and close.
I prefer this one for necklines over the Double Fold because I eliminate an extra fold of
fabric underneath. All machines that have coverhem capabilities
will have ways for you to adjust the tension on both your looper thread and your needle
threads. It will be a dial, just like a tension dial on a sewing machine.
On this side of the machine is where the tension dial is which controls the tension on the
threads that go through the coverhem needles. You can see that we’re using our needles in
the front position instead of a back position. The front position is for coverhem, the back
position back here, is for overlock. This is a clear foot which allows you to see
through the foot, to see your coverhem stitches approaching the needles. This machine has
the capability of sewing the coverhem stitch with three needles. Right now, we are only
going to use two needles. The little attachment itself fits right on
what is called the fabric table, I just call it a flatbed attachment. Technically, it’s
a fabric table or a sewing table. Over here are some adjustments on the attachment,
you can see that if you need to, you can take these two screws out and adjust these two
pieces either closer or farther apart. There’s also two screws right here in the little flatbed
table. Those have threaded screw holders in the end which the screws go down to. When
you put this on, you might think “Oh gee, I’m just going to use one screw.” You really
need to use both screws. If you just put one screw in there and tighten it down, this has
a tendency to want to turn like this. If you put both screws in there, it makes it so that
it doesn’t turn. It won’t turn this way, but it will still slide back and forth this direction
for adjustment in front of the foot. First thing that you need to do, is align
the bias binder to line up with the needle marks on the toe of the presser foot. This
particular company has a needle mark on the toe of the foot for every needle that goes
into the machine. You have three needles on the coverhem; there’s
one, two, three, and you have two needles on the back for the overlocks.
The coverhem needles we have on the machine right now are number 2 and number 3. There
is no needle in the number 1 position. So the front of the binder, right here is where
the binding is going to go through, you’ll have to line it up as close as what you can.
Remember, you need to make a practice sample. Don’t expect it to be absolutely correct the
first time you do it. That’s why these screws are here, so you can loosen them and fine
tune the position where that binder is. So we’re going to set it up, to what I think
is fairly close. Tighten these screws down to hold the binder in position. The next step
we’re going to do is actually get the binding into the attachment and get the fabric into
the binder. When you first load your bias in there, take
into consideration the width of your bias. The instructions that come with the bias binder
will suggest to you the right width to cut your bias piece. It literally has to fit right
here, into this little tunnel. It needs to be exactly that size. Now, it says 1 1/8″
for this type of fabric. But if you’re going to use a heavier fabric or a thinner fabric
or a stretchy fabric, you may have to vary that width a little larger or a little smaller.
Always make a sample. Don’t assume that every fabric is going react the same.
I like to cut a little wedge like this, like an arrow on the front of the bias, because
when we poke it in here, we have to feed it through this curled action part of the binder.
And it goes through much easier if you don’t have the sharp corners out here, (the angled
corners) we need them like this. So put your bias in there, just feed it right
in and see it fits right in that little slot. And see right here? I call it a little pusher
slider. You can take your tweezers or a straight pin, or anything. You see I’m just working
it through. You can see it down coming out down here, curling here? There it comes. See
it coming out underneath? Once you get it coming out, then you lift
up the toe of the foot and I take my tweezers and I pull the bias underneath the foot. Now,
look straight down there at the foot and you’ll see that this clear foot will show you exactly
where your bias is going. You kind of line it up at this point. I can see where my needles
are going to hit it, and I’m pretty close. As we start to sew, we still need to adjust
this position over here by loosening the screws and moving the binder.
To begin, there is a special way you put your fabric in. You have to be sure that the edge
of your fabric rubs right there, against the edge of that little piece of the binder.
You put it in, you’re presser foot’s up and push the fabric all the way back to the needles
and I’m inside the binding. See how I’m nice and smooth right here? I’m
inside the binding. Then you lower the foot down, bring your needles
down to see where they’re going into the binding and I look pretty good right there. But you
still may need to loosen these screws after you do your practice sample and move it one
way or the other. Now look closely down there. See this needle
and this thread? See how it’s not quite on the fabric? This is where you loosen these
screws and make sure your needles are up, you can’t adjust this with the needles in
the fabric, and just slightly move that over. Ever so slightly.
Tighten this back down and we’ll continue to sew. Now remember, I moved it up here,
so it’s going to take it just about that length right there before it gets into the place
where we moved it. Give it a little chance to get over there before you stop. There it’s
starting to creep over a little bit. Now it’s getting on it. You see the difference? Now
the needle is on it. As you’re sewing through it, make sure you
keep your fabric up there and see the curl? The curl on the bias is curling it right through
the little bias binder. As it feeds through, see how beautiful it
comes out in the back? All your stitches are beautiful and nice and even.
Just go right on through and right out the back.