This Diana Sullivan in Austin, Texas, and here is a buttonhole band technique for when you want the ribbing to be knitted this way So the sweater was knitted in the normal, up-and-down fashion, and then I picked up stitches along the edge and made these buttonholes. The buttonholes are made by knitting only this area for a little while, then knitting only this area for a little while, and then knitting only this area. So there’s several strands of yarn that you will have to use to do this. After you’ve done all of those sections, then you need a few more rows and finish off the ribbed band. I’m going to start this by knitting a sample that is 38 stitches by 60 rows. I’m on tension 7 and I’m using a two twelve yarn, so if you want to follow along and knit a sample too, that would be the way to begin. I’ll just start with an e-wrap cast on. I have my rows knitted. I did one loose row and I’m doing a loop-through-a-loop bind off. I’ll get this done, and then I’ll show you how to pick up stitches along the side edge for a button band. I’ve steamed the piece slightly, just to make it easier to see what to pick up. Now, if your pattern tells you how many stitches to pick up, then that’s pretty easy. You just bring out that many needles. But if it doesn’t, I like to use the rule of thumb that I pick up three rows and then skip the fourth, so working along the edge and trying to keep this straight, I’m going to pick up three rows with my triple transfer tool. And when I say straight, I’ll turn this over and show you what I mean. Straight means that these stitches are along the same line going vertically. And I pick up three and then I skip one and pick up the next three rows and plop those on, and it’s actually, if you practice this a little bit, not very difficult to make sure that you’re going in a straight line down the edge. So I’ll get all of these on the machine and come back and show you the next step. I always stop before I actually knit through all these little spots and make sure that I have a good, straight line along there, and I’m satisfied with it. So what I do at this point is bring my needles out to hold position. Because this is a ribber project — I’m going to make a ribbed edge on here — I need a little more weight than if it was just a main bed project, so I’m hanging a triangular weight hanger on my sample and I’m hanging one large one-pound weight on there as well. Now I have my carriage set on tension 7 just for this first row. I’m going to go all the way down to tension 4 for the ribbing, and I thread my carriage –just my ordinary main bed carriage — and knit across, and it draws a loop through every one of these, and I think you can see that this is beautifully even. There are no problems here. So that I don’t forget, I’m turning my tension down to tension 4 on the main bed and on the ribber. Then I’m going to take the main bed carriage off. I’m putting on the ribber coupler instead. Some people call it the ribber arm. Both carriages — main bed and ribber — are just set for plain knitting and they’re on tension 4, since my project was knitted on tension 7. Now, what I need to do is put every other needle onto the ribber to make purl stitches. This is going to be knit-one-purl-one ribbing, and a lot of times, machine knitters called this one-by-one ribbing, so — simple enough — I just have to take my double-eyed transfer tool and move these. I’m knitting three rows of ribbing. That puts me on the right-hand side with my carriage. Now I’m setting my carriage to not knit needles that are in hold. On the main bed, it’s just one lever right here. It goes from N to H, but on the ribber there are these little side levers that need to go down on H. That allows me to short row even though I’m doing ribbing. Now you have to decide where the buttonholes go. The buttonholes go between stitches, and I use a washable marker to mark the buttonhole on my bed and then also on the ribber so that I know exactly which needles are going to be the beginning and end of each section. This saves me a lot of time to have that mark, and it can save me from making mistakes. Now what I’m going to do is knit this first little section. I begin by bringing all the needles that I’m not going to knit out to hold position on the ribber and on the main bed so the machine will just skip those. There is one more step though. I need to use an edge weight hanger to put a little bit of weight on these few stitches that I am going to knit so I’ll put my edge weight hanger on in there and put a small weight on it, and knit three rows. Now, I want to get back to the right without knitting anything, so I’m going to take these last three needles on the main bed, these last three on the ribber — the ones I was just using — pull them out to hold, and the machine will slip across and not knit them. Now my next problem is: I need the yarn to be where I need the yarn to be for the next group. So where I need that yarn to be is: I need a long loop down between the beds that I can use later to sew in the ends. So I can easily pick up this yard end and move it, and I’m putting it in my latch tool, which I threaded up between the two beds. I’ll pull that latch tool down in between and make a long loop — about an 8-inch loop — and then I’m grabbing a very large clothespin — this gives me a little bit of weight — and I’m putting it on that loop. Now when I approach with the knitting machine, it’s going to have a yarn right where it needs it and it’s going to have a loop that I can use for sewing in later. My next job is to pick out the stitches that I’m going to knit next time, so I’m going to knit from this needle on the ribber over to this needle on the ribber, and what you want to do is you want to bring these needles down just about a half inch from the others. All the others need to be up. These need to be down, just about a half an inch. And then up on the main bed, the same thing — down about a half an inch. I have found that if I push them so far down that the yarn is actually wanting to slip right over the needle, that’s too far and I could drop a stitch, but if I don’t push them far enough, the machine will kick them out to hold and not knit them, so I think I have them positioned just right, and I’m going to knit three rows. You see how it knitted only those and it’s skipping everything else. Now I need to get to the other side again without messing anything up, so I’ll put these needles in hold, these needles in hold, and slide over to the other side. Even when you only need a few needles, you need to go the full width of the knitting with your carriages. Now for my next group. Once again, I need to bring that yarn down in between the bed, and here is the spot where the yarn is coming from. I poked my latch tool up there, and I’m just pulling some yarn down. I’m going to move my clothespin over from the last loop, which I’m not doing anything with right now, to this loop and hold it down. Now, I need to put the needles on the ribber that are between those marks down by about a half inch, and I’ll just kind of check. I like where they are. That’s just about right. Then up on the main bed, those needles go down by about a half inch, and I’ll just line them up and check them. They look right to me. And knit three rows. Going slowly, I’m looking at the work and just making sure that everything knitted, and I’m going to put these in hold and put these in hold so I can get back to the other side. Now I need to move this yarn again. To move this yarn and make a loop, once again I’m coming in with my latch tool — coming up in the spot where I want to bring the yarn down, catching that yarn, and trying not to catch in other parts, and pulling it down. I’ll move my clothespin over onto it. Then, on the ribber, I need those same marks to guide me. I’m over in this section now. I want to be down about a half inch, and up here, using these marks to guide me, I want to be down about a half inch. To like to just make sure all the other needles are in the position where they belong. And knit three rows. To get to the other side, I’ll put these in hold, these in hold. a go on over to the other side. Now I have my last few stitches on the end to do, so once again, here I am with my latch tool, just using it as a hook. There’s another tool, called a work hook, that we could use, but I never have mine handy. I like to just keep a few favorite tools out. And then these needles have to come down by about a half inch. They go to D position. If you’re not sure how far to push them down, if you go look at the edge of your machine, there’s a mark showing the range of space that a D needle could be in. I don’t want it to knit any of those. Three rows. Now, once you have done all those little sections, you need to do three rows over all the needles. Well, to knit all the needles, I just changed my settings back to N from Hold, and if you want to go belt-and-suspenders and just have insurance, you can also push all of these back a half inch. One way or the other, the machine will knit them. So here’s row 1, row 2, and row 3. Now I’m just going to use a simple loop-through-a-loop bind off to take these off the machine. I have to flip the stitches on up to the main bed and then latch tool them off. I’m transferring my stitches to the main bed. For the loop-through-a-loop bind off, all I really need is one small quad weight, so I took all those other weights and clothespins off of there and I’ll just do my usual loop-through-a-loop bind off. Makes a good edge for this. Here’s what the finished band looks like, but I guess it’s not really finished because you have these loops. Now you had to have loops because if you just let this go across, it’ll go right through the buttonhole and make a loop and keep you from having a good buttonhole. What I like to do with these is cut the loop, take a needle and run the loop that is higher — that’s up here, coming from a higher row. I run it in and out of this ridge, so it’s coming out down here, and then I tie the two ends of the loop together and then go into this area and sew in and out of that area to hide the bits of yarn. So you do have these, but look at this closely. What you’ll notice is that this is a very good edge pickup. It’s nice and straight. You’ll also notice that When these buttonholes are finished as in this sample, that they’re just kind of an opening in between two knitted ridges. There are an awful lot of patterns, when I look through my knitting books, that don’t tell how to do a buttonhole. What you do is up to you, and that’s why I teach so many buttonholes.