Articles, Blog

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 33 Buttonholes

October 17, 2019

Buttonholes are easy with the right tools
and stitches. Let’s go ahead and go up to our stitch menu, come down to menu B, B for
buttonholes, and select the first one. You’re going to notice that you get a new foot on
the screen. It has that little red wheel. I want to show you something before I put
this foot on. Number one, the red wheel spins and there’s
a white line on the top. As you move it, there is a white crown. These two need to be matched
up prior to stitching. If they aren’t, the machine will actually tell you with a little
message to line those two items up. I always point those out before I put the foot on. You’re going to go ahead and put the foot
on like normal, like a regular presser foot. This part here has a place that it plugs in.
It goes straight up, kind of behind the needle threader. You can feel for it or peek underneath.
The key is that when you go to plug it in that you get it to plug in all the way up
to, and into, the unit. Sometimes people push it up there, and then it actually doesn’t
get all the way thing. Let me stop talking so I can … There we
go. I can feel it. Sometimes you’ll feel a little click, sometimes you won’t. If you
don’t get it pushed in all the way, when you start doing a buttonhole, it just keeps going
and going and going. That’s you key that this is not plugged in all the way. There’s different buttonholes for different
fabrics. If you are using the sewing advisor, and picking your fabric here, and then picking
number 7, this buttonhole will change based on your fabric. Notice this foot … It says
foot C, which is your other buttonhole foot. It has no red wheel. That means you are in
charge of doing it a little bit more on your own without that red wheel. There’s lots of
different styles depending on your fabric. I’m going to go ahead and pick the most basic
one. There’s lots of choices that you can do here. I’ll show you the manual version
in just a second. The next thing that you want to do, take your
button and put it on the measuring tool right here. Let me go ahead and get a little lower.
There we go. Do you notice that this has a little dotted circle? This circle is where
the button goes for measuring. Put it at zero. Then over here I see that I’m at 18mm. You
can come to the screen and go ahead and put in, right here, how big your button is. That
is all you need to do. Next, when you put your fabric in, do note
that your button hole is going to start here and then stitch away from you and back. That
is something … Don’t start at the edge of your fabric, you’ll run out of room. You’ll
figure that our real quick. I’m going to go ahead and slide this in. There’s even marks
on the foot so you can get it marked, or started, in the same place every time, which is awesome. All I need to do is literally just put my
foot on the foot control and go ahead and stitch. Put your hands in your lap, because
the machine’s going to do everything for you. The foot has little grooves underneath, so
they’re guiding the two satin stitches perfectly down through the foot. It’s not going to go
sideways on you. That little wheel is turning to make sure to tell the machine when to turn
around. It will lock and cut for you at the end, so
just keep your foot on the foot control until it stops. Voila, buttonholes. Then when you
are ready to stitch again, it’s all ready to go. That is perfectly measured for the
button size that you put in, even gives you a little bit of extra for the space and thickness.
If you have a thicker button you need to maybe just bump it up a couple of millimeters longer
for that extra distance there. Depending on what fabric you’re working with
… If you’re working with a knit fabric, we come over here to a stretch medium, you’re
going to be selected to do … oop, that one’s going to actually tell you to cord the buttonhole,
which I’ll show you also. There I a stretch buttonhole. Let me just do that one real quick.
We’ll do it with the manual buttonhole. Notice onscreen that it shows you where you’re
starting and which direction it is headed. We’ll go ahead and put this in. The thing
is … Let’s see here. Can we put the length, no. We can’t put the length in. This is where
you would mark your fabric for beginning and ending marks. Let’s just do that so you can
actually see. We’ll mark a beginning and an end. What I’m going to do is put it at the beginning,
get that set. We’re ready to go. It’s going to go ahead and do the buttonhole. This one’s
actually like a little X. Notice, once I start stitching there’s a new symbol that comes
up. That happens to be the same as the reverse button. What it’s asking us to do is actually, when
we get to the turnaround point, there’s my little mark, is to touch the reverse button
one time. You’ll notice that there’s an arrow across the screen that’s indicating what it’s
going to do next. Then it’s going to come down. That reverse arrow is still on here. The machine, once again, does not know where
we’ve started. We need to just go ahead and stop sewing when we get back down to where
we started. Touch the reverse button again. That tells the machine you’re ready for the
bottom tack, and the lock, and the cut. It will do everything for you. You just have
to tell it how long you’re actually stitching. The little X’s in that buttonhole are nice,
because they’re not as heavy. Usually knit is a lighter weight fabric and it will have
a little give to it, on knits, because it will stretch a little bit. How about for fun let’s go ahead and do a
keyhole buttonhole. This one you can do with the regular foot, but you can also do it … Here,
we’ll just do it with the regular manual foot, too. We can go ahead and touch the reverse
button. Then when we get down to where we started, we’ll touch it again. Then it will
go into the little key at the bottom, that oval-y satin stitched shape. Then touch reverse
to end it. It will end with some locking stitches. A keyhole buttonhole is great for a button
with a shank, so like a coat button or something. That gives that little area a place for that
thicker part to sit and turns out perfect. You even have a straight stitch buttonhole.
That’s good for leather. If we actually had picked fabric that was going to be for vinyl,
you’re going to get the H foot. That is the nonstick foot, and then the appropriate buttonhole
for that. We can also, from this screen, sew on buttons and do eyelets. We’re going to
go ahead and do those in separate videos. I want to show you one more way that you can
use these feet and do a corded buttonhole. One of these is actually set up for a corded
buttonhole. Here we go. Look at what we have. We’ve got little cord that is set up to go
around the back little hook of our foot. I’m going to go ahead and cut some cord, and show
you how this all works. You take your cord and divide it in half.
I’ve got the loop of it, or center part at the top here. I’m going to reach behind my
foot. You’re going to notice that on the feet there’s a little nub back here. I’m going
to hook it around there. It’s going to lay in the two little grooves as we do it. Do
that when the foot is on. You’re going to come underneath, hook it around the backside.
I kind of just hole it in one hand, put my fabric in to get it positioned where I want
it to start. We are all ready to go. This is manual, so we’ll go ahead and turn
it around as we are ready. What it will do is actually drag the cord with us. Here we
go, that looks good. We’ll touch our reverse button. There’s the tack at the top. Then
it’s coming back down. It’s couching over this cord, or encasing it inside the buttonhole.
There we go. There’s where we started, reverse button one more time. There’s the tack. There’s
the lock and the cut. What’s really nice is … Let’s take a look.
Oh, yes. It actually looks much heavier. It’s also stabilized. That’s why they recommend
this for the stretchier fabrics. Then you just take the cord and pull. Watch this loop.
It’s going to disappear into the top of the buttonhole. Then all we need to do is take
our scissors … Yes, you can put this on a needle and weave
it, or take it to the backside of the fabric. A lot of times I just cut it. It’s not really
going to go anywhere. Then just cut it really close to the edge and give it a little pull.
That will just disappear right in there. It is a very nicely felt buttonhole. It is ready
to go. That’s how you do an automatic buttonhole,
keyhole, corded, and a manual version of all the different buttonholes on your screen.


  • Reply Susan Thiedt August 11, 2016 at 5:30 am

    You provide excellent, clear instructions. Thank you!

  • Reply Kristal Rogers August 23, 2016 at 9:24 pm

    So if my button is 15 mm what should that bottom number be?

  • Reply Michelle Roth February 3, 2017 at 7:41 pm

    I have a new Ruby royale, I will now try the sensor button hole foot after viewing this video. Thank you

  • Reply mari carmen berbel August 19, 2018 at 8:06 pm

    Hay tutoriales en español?

  • Reply Pat Hagaman March 3, 2019 at 10:28 pm

    Thank you so much for your easy to follow instructions. I would never have followed the manual.

  • Reply JoAnn Page August 20, 2019 at 4:34 pm

    My question has nothing to do with buttons but your site is the only one I found for info on Viking Designer Ruby. The question is: Is it possible to decrease the foot pressure? Thanks in advance for your response.

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