Cover Stitch Machine: Ripping and ‘Basting’ Tips by Sure-Fit Designs™

October 23, 2019

Hi everyone. My name is Glenda with
Sure-Fit Designs, whimsically known as Glenda the Good Stitch. If you’ve been
following along in the videos that I’ve done in the cover stitch, you’ll know
that in the very first one that I did I actually showed you a project that was
underway and it was the reversible vest. And here I had designed princess lines
into it and used my cover stitch machine to do this decorative stitching and the
way that I did this was to turn the right side of the fabric upside down so
that this is the looper that’s on the right side of the fabric now and I also
put woolly nylon in the looper so that you could see that nice heavy black line
of stitching going up and down the princess line. And I’ll remove this one
and we’ll take a look at another project. I’ve done a couple of blouses like this,
this is the princess line blouse and I did the same process where I wanted to
emphasize the princess line and so I’ve done that now with white thread again,
this is the looper thread that is showing on the right side. And it’s
very easy to do this, but if by some chance when you get a decorative line
like this done and you’re checking it out and you go oops, there’s a thread or
a stitch that didn’t catch, then this will start to look really poor. And so
how do you get rid of all of this without having to pick thread by thread
by thread out to to rectify that? Well first of all let’s talk about what might
have caused a skip stitch. Number one you should always start off with fresh
needles on any project and cover stitch machines do require this E-L needle. E-L
is extra long and so it’s very important that you put the correct needle in. The
second thing that’s really important is that
you threaded your machine properly. Sometimes that can throw it off and not
let a stitch form properly and the other thing that could be happening is
that the timing is off in your machine. Now the timing is something you’re not
going to want to fix yourself. You would need to take that into your dealer. So
those are just three things to keep in mind when you’re trying to troubleshoot
why that happened in the first place. Now, another thing that can happen is that
you sew crooked and that’s what happened to me in the last project is
that even though I had my basting line here,
I went crooked when I sewed it. And so it’s really important to know how to
pick it out quickly and easily. You’ve all had ready-to-wear t-shirts that when
you see a thread loosening from the hem you pull it, and the whole thing runs on
you and you went oops, now my hems out, not in place properly. Well, that’s all
well and good to know that that can happen and that’s a cover stitch and it
will pull out, but because I’ve taught you how to lock the ends of both the
beginning and the end of your project, sometimes it’s really hard to get that
process going, so I’m going to stitch a line here and then we’re going to take a
look at how to pull it apart. But once you have it going, you see you can pull
up the looper thread and that just pulls all the way out, and so because I
stitched crooked and I don’t like my finished garments to have that kind of
an obvious issue on them, I would just rip it out before I took that
basting out and then your 2 top threads they just pull out as well.
And there it goes like that. And so it’s really, really easy to correct an issue.
And so let’s take a look at how to make that happen.
I’ve just got a piece of white fabric here, pattern fabric and I’m going to
just pretend that it’s kind of like the blouse or the vest where I want the
looper, the lower looper to be the topside, so that means I’m going to
be stitching it from the wrong side and it doesn’t matter the width that I do
this. So we’ll stitch this all the way along. This technique that I’m showing you
doesn’t matter whether you’re using two thread wide, two thread narrow or a three
thread. Again, you’ve removed this or as you remove it, your needles need to be in
the highest position to start releasing the tension and then lift the presser
foot and lift up the tip of your presser foot, take a grabbers – either the my
little dental hook here or the tweezers that will come with your machine and
then pull towards you. Snip the threads and then again with the presser foot up
in the highest position, give a tug to the back and off to the side and the
last thread clip is the looper thread. Okay so that locked it and then
you start looking at your project and yes, I know that that looks perfect.
Nothing is skipped and nothing is broken there. But let’s just say that you didn’t
have new needles in there or you miss threaded and you’ve got a skipped stitch
here and so now it doesn’t look nice and pretty like that and you need to take it
out. Well what you want to do is on this you’re always going to start at the
ending position. So remember I sewed it in this direction, and you can tell that
because my threads are still on the top of the the sample. And on these ones the
threads are underneath because they got pulled to the underneath to lock them.
Well you have to release that locking mechanism. And so what you want to do is clip or take your thread ripper or your
stitch ripper and just break the threads underneath where that lock is. Alright
and then you find the longest thread, well, I cut it longer so that I
knew which would be my my bobbin or the lower looper thread, and
then you start pulling in. And see this one is locked on me so I’m going to have
to release a little bit more here to get it going, and let’s get rid of those
threads. Okay there we go, it’s broken and now this should pull all the way and it
does. So now you can remove it and go back and check why did that happen in
the first place. And it’s come out so quickly. Okay, so that’s one little tip
that I wanted to share with you and one other one that I’d like to comment on is
that if you use just one single needle here, and let’s say that you’re sewing a
project and you would like to baste it together, first of all to try it on –
you’re not too sure of if you’re going to like the way you’ve slimmed the legs
or whatever the case may be. So you want to baste it and try it on. So now I’ve
put right sides together and I want just a single needle on my machine and then
I’m going to do a chain stitch. So I’ve got my little screwdriver here and I’m
going to remove the needle that’s on the outside. I’ll just let that go, remove the
needle and then I’m going to clip the thread and just pull it all the way
through. So now the only needle that’s threaded is my right hand needle and now
we’re going to sew a seam and I’m just going to assume that that’s 5/8
of an inch or pretty darn close to it right there.
And now I will sew my seam, my 5/8 inch seam allowance and
this is a chain stitch. And then of course you could have marked that with
your tape and known exactly that it was 5/8. So if you’re basting for trying on and
fitting purposes, it does need to be exactly 5/8. So to remove this, the needle
has to be in the highest position. Raise that presser foot up, tip the toe up, pull
the thread forward, cut it and then lift, pull and away it goes. And again I’m just
going to cut my looper thread a little bit longer. Now again, I started
here, I’ve ended here and because of the way I removed it, I locked the threads so
there’s my little stitch ripper. I need to break this first thread on the top
side. I’m breaking the top thread and now rather than picking out tedious basting
which I mean it’s ok if you’ve got a really long basting stitch, but look at
how fast you can rip that seam out. So it’s a really handy technique to know.
You can use this chain stitch, sew the garment together, try it on and then when
you’re ready to sew it permanently that rips out so quickly. Well I hope you’ve
enjoyed these tips that I’ve shared with you on sewing with your cover stitch
machine and I do invite you to join the Sure-Fit Designs community if you haven’t
already. You can do that in three easy steps. Number one, make sure to LIKE this
video and subscribe to my YouTube channel if you haven’t already, and
please leave a comment. Number two, make sure you subscribe to the Sure-Fit
Designs newsletter. There’s all kinds of getting started gifts to get you going
and you just need to go to and the sign up form is at
the bottom of pretty much every page. And number three, we now have a Facebook
users group. We have seamstresses from all over the
world who are interacting with one another sharing their Sure-Fit Designs
projects and asking questions, and I chime in. You’re very very welcome to
join us.

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